It was time to meet the alligators. Having never met one, my Cajun Encounters trip was the best welcome to New Orleans (and the South) I could have asked for. We learned so much in the nearly 2-hour swamp tour, complete with Cajun A/C (aka a cool breeze on a boat on the bayou). I imagine my fear of alligators is much like that of someone’s fear of rattlesnakes, who has never been to the desert. But that was the goal of this excursion, it was time to quell my fear.

I was visiting New Orleans on May and signed up for the experience + hotel pickup, and was surprised that it was a full sized, well air-conditioned tour bus that arrived to pick us up. I had to walk a few blocks from my hotel to where the pick up stops were (although they do offer pick up from some of the larger hotels). It was a full bus that headed out on the 45 minute drive to the swamp. Passengers are divvied up amongst captains and boats based on an assigned color band handed out upon arrival, and sent out to the roughly 16 passenger boats. Everyone has a front row seat. There was no splash zone, my flip flops and Nikon were quite safe. Captain John safely guided us through the waters, explaining about life in the area for animals and the people who choose to live along or on the water. He shared great tips and tricks of alligator hunters and all sorts of useful facts and history about the area. We were able to spot some neat birds, quite a few alligators, and some super cute and curious raccoons. There were unfortunately no hogs this time, though. As an owner of a Catahoula – the state dog of Louisiana, which has been bred for years to hunt the wild hogs of the swamps, I was curious to see one in the wild.

I appreciated the smaller, quiet boats of Cajun Encounters as opposed to the popular airboats, while maneuvering through the small bayous off the river. They don’t scare off the animals. So I left having improved my knowledge of people living with alligators, and with a lessened fear of the creatures themselves. I still wouldn’t swim in any open body of water in the South, however.

Pro tip: you don’t need bug spray. There were literally no bugs. According to Capt. John, mornings and midday they disappear and return in the evenings. We didn’t need sunscreen either, the boat had a very welcome cover (though not all of them did) and it was cloudy, and a balmy 85 degrees or so.

One of the passengers on my tour asked our captivating guide Captain John what he does in his spare time, while not wrangling alligators or sharing the tales of the South’s swamps and creatures. We were surprised to find that he is a musician, and was playing later in the week at a popular jazz bar known as Fritzel’s. I made it a point on my itinerary to be sure and check it out.

Fritzel’s Jazz – A cozy little nook, tucked away off Bourbon street isn’t very big, but makes full use of its space. You are greeted immediately upon entry and guided to a space where your group will fit, including sharing benches and areas with other folx. I was solo, so I ended up sat right up front next to another couple on a bench by the stage, on a Wednesday night. They save you the awkward searching and asking to share seating, and keep each seat full so everyone has a chance to experience the band. People rotated in and out throughout the evening.

There are plenty of cocktails and prompt service, but I went for the house wine, as an avid fan of wine with my jazz. The band was phenomenal! It well earns its badge as one of the best places to listen to live jazz that I’ve ever been to. I even found Captain John the alligator wrestler perched at the piano, his fingers dancing away to a jazz tune with his band.

During my stay I employed the services of the Hotel Provincial, a charming and historic location dating back to 1725. Of course as with most of the hotel in the French Quarter, there are notes of hauntings, perhaps especially at this one due to its history as a military hospital. It had a pool, quaint nooks and courtyards (as seen below) and boasted a free Sazerac (the official cocktail of NOLA) to guests at their Ice House bar. My first evening I lay in bed, peering up at the large ceilings, and antique desk and armchair , and imagined what sort of hauntings might happen to me in that grand bed, but alas I slept quite soundly. The staff were wonderfully friendly and I found it a perfect starting point for my week there, even if I did have to take a Lyft to the conference center each day. I wanted to be in the center of the historic charm of the city.

I had a list of historic restaurants to hit, and after my trip to the Court of Two Sisters, I immediately fell in love. I went on my third day, and it offered a chance to experience all the local staples I had wanted to sample. I made reservations for two well in advance, but I think I could have walked right in. It was noon on a Wednesday.

Typical to the French Quarter, the Court of Two Sisters also celebrates a rich history.

In 1886 Bertha Angaud, and Emma Camors “set up their “rabais” or notions shop they called “The Shop of the Two Sisters.” The two sisters, born in 1858 and 1860 respectively, belonged to a proud and aristocratic Creole family.  It was for these sisters that “The Court” was named.  Their shop outfitted many of the city’s finest women with Mardi Gras costumes, formal gowns of the “Gay Nineties”, lace and perfumes imported from Paris.  It’s said that occasionally the sisters would serve tea and cakes to their favorite customers in the large courtyard beginning the tradition continued today.” (CourtofTwoSisters.com)

Today their Jazz Brunch features an all you can eat buffet for somewhere around $36 that covers all the New Orleans essentials! It seemed that each taste I had was better than the last. I tried etouffe, jambalaya, local cornbread, bananas foster, and mimosas of course, among other options. Everything was just as I had hoped it would be, and it was very first time I tried bananas foster.

The patio, too, was magnificent; there are fans and ample trees and even on a balmy day in May it was quite comfortable to sit outside. The live jazz was an extra special treat to take in the experience, also with a wishing well, which was said to be the “Devil’s Wishing Well, based on the supposition that since Marie Laveau lived only a few blocks away, she most certainly must have practiced her voodoo rites in the torchlit confines of the city’s largest courtyard.” (CourtofTwoSisters.com)

Coop’s Place – One day I wandered into a well known dive bar off the beaten path a bit, but just around the corner from the Hotel Provincial, where I was staying. Not busy on a Monday afternoon, it was cozy but had open bar seating. I ordered the sampler for $19 for a full assortment of all the flavors. It definitely has a little Cajun kick to it! I paired it with a Louisiana beer and listened in on the local chatter, as I dined alone that day. The bartenders were just as opinionated as the reviews say, but were happy to help me with my questions.

I only briefly explored Bourbon street, my purpose was not to party, but I strolled down the main areas a gazed upon the architecture of the buildings there and I did endeavor to try a Hurricane, not realizing that it is just as much a hurricane of an alcoholic experience, as it was a namesake to the events that happen to region. Of course the Hurricane had to be from New Orlean’s oldest bar – Jean Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop, built in 1722. Once owned by the famous French pirate and privateer Jean Lafitte who caused quite the row along the streets of New Orleans during his time. The house functioned as a blacksmith’s shop by day and a smuggling operation for stolen, illicit goods by night. I stumbled in rather by chance one evening, though it had been on my list to find.

Further from the heart of the French Quarter, next to the convention center and on the bank of the Mississippi you will find Mardi Gras World. It provided a rare chance to look in on all the artistry in action. The location, the home to Kern Studios where the original floats and designs of the Mardi Gras parade have been housed since 1932, is a great way to see how much artistry goes into their creation. You can see and get up close and personal with all the famous floats, and peek at currently in-progress floats under construction. I was lucky enough to visit the facility as part of my work event, which featured their reception at the large, magical event space next door.

Walking down the Mississippi waterfront from Mardi Gras World you can either make a stop at the less busy waterfront Cafe Du Monde, or further along the river to the French Market for the original, much livelier and historic Cafe Du Monde location, surrounded by street musicians and NOLA souvenirs. It was in the market that I found my beloved Mardi Gras mask that came home with me to match my authentic renaissance dress. A story for another day.

“The taste for coffee and chicory was developed by the French during their civil war. Coffee was scarce during those times, and they found that chicory added body and flavor to the brew. The Acadians from Nova Scotia brought this taste and many other french customs (heritage) to Louisiana. Chicory is the root of the endive plant. Endive is a type of lettuce. The root of the plant is roasted and ground. It is added to the coffee to soften the bitter edge of the dark roasted coffee. It adds an almost chocolate flavor to the Cafe Au Lait served at Cafe Du Monde.” (CafeduMonde.com)

A trip to New Orleans is certainly not complete without the chickory coffee, and world famous beignets, with powdered sugar stacked so high it is guaranteed to get on your clothes.

I was quite captivated by New Orleans, the food, the people and rich culture and history. While I always had my wits about me, there were many times I was well aware of how dangerous certain areas of NOLA can be and are. I felt an uneasy fear building up in my chest walking the streets in the evening alone. I had a great time during my visit, even as a solo female traveler and look forward to visiting some day again for more history, culture, and food.